It’s important to note that all of the benefits of topical application of Niacinamide directly coincide with the percentage in a product. Some sources say a 2%-5% concentration is most effective.
Niacinamide induces an improvement in wound healing. Three groups were compared, one of which was treated with an ointment dressing. In the second group, a dry viscose dressing was used. The third group were given infusions with Complamin® in addition to the viscose dressing. This is a nicotinic acid salt with a xanthine corpus (xanthinol nicotinate). Using the infusion treatment, it was possible to reduce the time to wound healing from 15–17 days to 7–10 days.
Oblong et al. 24 found that in ageing cells, niacinamide enabled NADP content to be increased to a level comparable with that of young cells. It was also possible to prove that niacinamide, as a precursor of NAD/NADP, had a stimulatory effect on collagen synthesis, epidermal biopolymers (proteins) keratin, ﬁlaggrin and involucrin.
Skin Surface and Wrinkles Improvement
In the context of a vehicle-controlled study, it was possible to show a smoothing of the skin surface structure and a reduction in wrinkle depth on the facial skin of women following 12 weeks topical treatment with niacinamide, results which differed statistically signiﬁcantly from the inﬂuence of the vehicle.
Gensler noted that it was also possible to inhibit both photo-immunosuppression and photocarcinogenesis by the topical application of niacinamide. There are no ﬁxed ideas on the mechanism by which niacinamide exerts its beneﬁcial effects.
In two studies, Hakozaki30 has shown a reduction in pigment disorders as a result of niacinamide. In the ﬁrst study, facial pigment disorders in 18 Japanese women were treated on one side with 5% niacinamide and on the other side with vehicle only. The pigment disorders were evaluated qualitatively and quantitatively using high-resolution digital images and subjective judgements. In both evaluation procedures, it was found that after 8 weeks of treatment there was a signiﬁcant lightening of hyperpigmentation as a result of niacinamide compared with the effect of the vehicle (P < 0.05). In a second study on 120 Japanese women, in the context of a three-part study using the same evaluation parameters as in the ﬁrst study, comparisons were made among an SPF 15 sun protection cream with and without 2% niacinamide and the relevant vehicle. As a result of niacinamide treatment, there was a lightening of the skin after 4 and 6 weeks, which was signiﬁcantly better than with either the sun cream without niacinamide or the vehicle.
In total, 82% of those treated showed an improvement in overall disease condition after 8 weeks. 33 In the case of a comparable treatment with a clindamycin gel there was an improvement in only 68% of cases.
In addition to an improvement in horny layer moisture, there was also a reduction in the reddening of the skin as an indication of the anti-inﬂammatory effect.
Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin by Gehring, W Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, ISSN 1473-2130, 04/2004, Volume 3, Issue 2, pp. 88 – 93
Proctor & Gamble has the monopoly on 4-5% niacinamide. Most other brands use 2% niacinamide or less. Source
Myristyl nicotinate is stabilized to prevent the release of, or quick conversion to, nicotinic acid, which can cause facial flushing, particularly in those dealing with rosacea (Sources: Journal of Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Analysis, February 2007, pages 893–899; Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy, November 2007, pages 1176–1182; and Experimental Dermatology, November 2007, pages 927–935, and June 2007, pages 490–499).