Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 (palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 before 2006) is a matrikine used in anti-wrinkle cosmetics. It was launched in 2000 as an active ingredient for the personal care industry under the trade name Matrixyl by the French cosmetic active ingredient manufacturer Sederma SAS, in collaboration with Proctor & Gamble.
Palmitoyl pentapeptide is a fatty acid mixed with amino acids. The only research showing this has any significance for skin was carried out by the ingredient manufacturer, Sederma. In their research, three different “half-face” studies with a total of about 45 participants showed it to be better than a retinol or vitamin C product. Without independent substantiation, however, there is no way to know how accurate this company-funded research is. Further, according to Sederma’s research, the recommended concentration for this ingredient is 3% to 5% and there are few, if any, lines that include more than just a small amount in their products.
Journal of Cosmetic Science, January–February 2001, issue 1, pages 77–78